Why we can’t get enough of beauty products with weird smells.

It’s no secret that in the world of beauty marketing, consumers react more favourably to a product when it contains ingredients with scents that elicit a positive response. Think: a note of a mood-enhancing essential oil or a splash of nostalgia-inducing gingerbread. So what of products that downright stink, showing up au naturel without any added fragrance? Does this “bad” smell mean a product will work better, like a hard-to-swallow cough syrup, or is it a placebo effect? 

Since its inception, Biologique Recherche has taken the conscious approach of making its products fragrance-free, meaning that the odours of certain active ingredients, like lactic acid or yeast, are prevalent. As a result, the brand has become infamous for the distinct aromas of some of its products, earning them comparisons to a litany of olfactory assaults: sour breast milk, vinegar and even Vegemite. It’s a polarizing phenomenon that manages to both attract and repel at once. 

“For someone who is used to applying a cream with artificial fragrances, this ‘yeasty’ smell is weird,” says Laura Gasnier, Export Sales Manager at Biologique Recherche in Paris. “If the clients are not used to it and not warned before they purchase, they are skeptical, but they fall in love when they see the results. Once they know it works, they are ready to skip past that unusual smell.”

Ultimately, fragrance-free products are growing in popularity because fragrance is an unregulated term, so listing ingredients as “fragrance” can be a way for harmful substances to sneak into products. Eschewing added fragrances means the company is 100 percent transparent about what's in its products. 

The key consideration in skincare’s efficacy, whether it’s fragranced or not, is working with a professional to establish what will best suit your skin’s needs. And who knows? You might end up falling in love with some weird scents along the way.

Tasting Notes

Earthy: Biologique Recherche Masque Vivant (100 ML), $82 

Pungent: Biologique Recherche Creme Collagene (50 ML), $106

Fermented: Biologique Recherche Lotion P50T (250 ML), $129